Day ∞ : The Days of Reflection

Where do I begin? Well …

In a year when England lost to Iceland in the Euros, Brexit went from a joke about breakfast to a reality and a tangerine became the Leader of the Free World, three normal blokes from Bath embarked on what would become the adventure of lifetime. Where many will remember 2016 as a year to forget, for us we celebrated our graduation from university, gave personal best performances at happy hour and stepped 18,175 miles into the unknown with little but a bathtub and a 20 year-old car. Amongst all the madness, all the doom and gloom that 2016 brought, the faint glimmer of a golden Micra will forever serve as a constant reminder of more enjoyable, care-free times.

When the journey began way back in mid-July we could never have dreamt of the impression some of these rarely visited places would have on us. Sometimes it’s best just to let the adventure take you, let it sweep you off your feet and go with the flow. This was certainly the case for us given the lack of in-depth planning that went into this trip. Apart from visas, a rough route outline and the wrong Nissan Micra Haynes Manual, we were totally on our own but as we soon found out, that is exactly how you rally. To all our sponsors, to Twickenham Studios, Integrator Solutions, Sartech, Data Access, Walkers, Xconnect Trading, Bat and Ball Sports, Bath Signs, Contrast Productions and Isle of Wight College, we are extremely grateful for your support, we’d have never even left the driveway without your help. We must also extend our thanks to Colin, our Stuart Place neighbour, without whom our battery would still be flat and we’d have fallen at the very first hurdle. Colin, wherever you are, cheers then!

And so with our pulses racing, we journeyed southwest to the historic Goodwood Racing Circuit, donned the flamboyant suits and joined 315 other farcically ridiculous vehicles to begin the greatest motoring adventure on the planet. At the sound of the la cucaracha horn we were off zipping across the channel, zooming across Europe and refusing to look back. Watching the sunrise from Constanta beach in Romania was just one of Europe’s special sights that would begin to mould our unforgettable journey. The winding roads of the Transfagarasan Highway, the balloon filled skies of Cappadocia and the magnificent views over the Bosphorus in Istanbul rounded off the continent in style. But now we were motoring further into the unknown and it was the turn of Asia to showcase its cultural delights.

Some of the most stunning natural and man-made wonders of the world lay in wait for us as we continued our quest east. The holy Armenian Khor Virap Monastery in the foreground of Mount Ararat stood as a stark contrast to the ferocious Door to Hell methane crater near Darweze, Turkmenistan. Uzbekistan offered us an eerie reminder of a once thriving fishing port at the Aral Sea as well as the utterly mesmerizing sight of the Perseid meteor shower over the enchanting ruins of the Ayaz Kala II ancient fortress. Breath-taking, spellbinding; it was indescribably beautiful.



More remarkable landscapes came into view as we continued on through Tajikistan. The interlocking spurs of the Wakhan Valley, the meandering Panj River marking the boundary with Afghanistan and of course the almost other-worldly setting of the Pamir Highway. Standing at 16,130 ft atop the peak of the second highest international highway in the world was unmistakably one of the stand-alone highlights of the entire rally.  

As for the people we met on the rally, their generosity and warmth knew no bounds. Iranians in their Saipa Sabas offered us bread, a friendly face and a glimpse into one of the oldest and richest cultures in the Middle East. Mohammed, the mechanics of Tehran, the 45°C heat, the 25p a litre petrol and the magnificent scenery made Iran one magical experience. Couple these with the immaculate Golestan Palace or the energetic scenes at the Kaboud-val waterfall and you have one uniquely vibrant country that everyone’s curiosity should urge them to visit.

Driving thousands of miles, attempting to converse in 23 different languages and bartering in 18 local currencies certainly did not come without its challenges and incidents. From Marigold’s first injury in Georgia to driving the sniper road in Armenia to crashing into the back of Two and a Half Men in Uzbekistan, every little knockdown added that extra layer of grit and determination to get across the finish line in one piece. On many occasions the law wasn’t our friend either. Filthy bribery to the Kyrgyzstani police, illegal currency exchange from a market stall nut seller and bargaining our way to black market benzene in Uzbekistan saw three law abiding citizens suddenly become notorious felons.

Into Mongolia the cavalry rode to be greeted by vast steppe land, rugged snow tipped mountains and scatterings of yurts housing the descendants of Chinggis Khan’s 12th century Mongol empire. The pinnacle of the rally certainly captured our imagination. Soaring eagles, roaming camels and galloping wild horses lined the washboard roads all the way east towards Ulaanbaatar, the capital. We drag raced, we sand-boarded, we even wrestled a local Mongolian on his own steppe turf. Mongolia taught us that the real voyage of discovery is not in seeking new sights, but in looking with new eyes.



When we rolled across the finish line in Ulan-Ude, euphoric scenes suddenly erupted into life as the magnitude of our journey began to set in. Our humble 1997 Nissan Micra adorned with the signatures, dirt and scars of the previous 54 days on the road had carried us halfway around the world. But there was no time for rest, for our race had only reached its midpoint.  

Like a game of two halves, the journey home was a different challenge. The stints of send across Russia, the dance of the Scandinavian capitals and the jaw-dropping chaos of Amsterdam completed an encyclopaedia of incredible stories, memories and laughs. When the White Cliffs came into view the journey had sadly come to an end, but what a journey it had been. We loved every minute.

To commemorate our rally’s legacy, there are a few awards to give out. The first Bath-ta of the evening is awarded to Uzbekistan’s brick throwing team for Team Rub-a-Dub-Dub’s top tip to achieve Olympic gold at Tokyo 2020. Able to pass bricks from street level to the top of a three-story building, these guys have the strength and technique that will likely edge the Scottish caber throwing team into silver. The second award of the night recognises outstanding striking achievement. Despite the final strike chart ending on Caleb: 8, Alf: 12 and Rich: 17, Alf’s “el triple” performance in an Ulan-Ude hostel forecourt blasted all other nominees out of the water. Decorating everywhere in sight with his dinner, losing his wallet and acting as an accessory to the callous defacing of our innocent bath-tub earned him the most strikes in a 24 hour period and the runaway winner of this award.

On to our much-revered award now, which is the stupidest item packed. Thanks to a 5kg bag of white protein powder wrapped in a bin liner and stuffed under the driver’s seat, we were nearly front-page news on the Daily Mail for drug smuggling. “Three white, privileged and unemployed young men turn to the illegal drug trade in shocking attempt to contaminate Iran’s halal whey protein supply. Is this what a £9,000 a year university education gets you in today’s post Brexit Britain?” is what the headline would’ve read. So Caleb; due to the infrequency of use and sniffer dog delays at the borders, you are the recipient of this much-coveted award.

And the final award of the evening is given to the biggest liability at the wheel. Not only did he gain 17 strikes, he crashed, was crashed into, drove headfirst into an open sewer and fell asleep whilst driving. When asked why he was taking risky off-road shortcuts, braking with his left foot and hanging out the window whilst driving, he simply replied, “because I’m bored”. For these reasons, Rich was demoted to writing the blog on the back seat, safely out of reach of Marigold’s controls and any kind of navigation responsibilities.

On the topic of this blog I would like to thank all my loyal readers who have followed our journey and I hope the story has intrigued, inspired and entertained you along the way. Through all the chaff, and sometimes sensationalistic exaggeration of the truth, I like to think that at its core I have represented what the rally was all about - the sense of adventure, challenge and fun in striding out into the wilderness completely unaided.

To all those who donated to our two great charities, Dementia UK and CoolEarth, we would like to extend our thanks for your support throughout. We feel honoured to have had the opportunity to raise money for such fantastic charities doing something we love. So far we have raised over £4,500, a total we are blown away by! We hope this figure will continue to rise in the future.

As for now, after all the dust has settled and normal life has resumed it’s a time to reflect on the joy a small golden car gave us for two and half months in summer 2016. Marigold left for Mongolia an ass, but she returned home a horse. As she sits dormant in storage, the signatures etched into her bodywork, the dust of the Mongolian plains encrusted on her once smooth surface and an overflowing strike chart scrawled across her dashboard, she reminds us of the more modest, nomadic existence we had as travellers. Life became beautifully simple on the road. We slept, we ate pasta and sauce, and we drove hundreds of miles. No less luxurious, but no more perfect. We weren’t shackled by the bounds of everyday life, the stresses of jobs or the worries of social status.

It was just us, a car and the simple question, “where to?” … “on”.



Forget the daily grind, this was the daily find. Every day brought new avenues of exploration, new leaps into the unknown. It became the ideal recipe for discovering new ways of life, new environments and new parts of a car we didn’t know existed.  

Would I do it all over again? Abso-bloody-lutely

18,175 miles, 25 countries, 38,753 words in the blog, a Car Wars saga, 37 strikes and ….

10        punishment press-ups every other day
  9        sponsors
  8        time zones
  7        Harry Potter audiobooks
  6        -teen thousand feet, the highest point reached
  5        mountain ranges
  4        convoy cars
  3        deserts
  2        ducks
  1        Marigold and 1 bath-tub

The adventure of a lifetime. 



Day 71: The Day We Returned Home

Monday 26th September

The day had finally arrived, our fanfare homecoming. Feared at first but now a very welcomed ship on the rally horizon. 70 days of continuous travel since the 16th July had led us to this point, the day we were to say goodbye to our nomadic lifestyles and close an epic chapter inked into our lives. But with coastal France and the English Channel still to cross, we weren’t quite home and dry just yet.

To champion this momentous day we decided it was only apt to get all nostalgic over breakfast. 3 tins of Heinz sausage and beans that we intended to eat on the very first morning at Goodwood still lay untouched at the bottom of our now empty food bag. Thanks to the expert culinary skills of one Paul Alford, we had opted for spaghetti bolognaise on that fateful day at the launch and completely forgot to eat the tins of processed goodness. Unloved, rusting and bullied by the more wholesome pasta and tomato sauces of this world, the three tins soon found themselves falling further and further to the one place no edible item wants to be, the bottom of the food bag. Just ask the Paxo stuffing mix, now there’s a foodstuff that can relate to living in this cesspit of neglect. 

Despite numerous attempts to be ousted by buckwheat vomit flakes and cocky fresh eggs, the loyal tinned breakfasts clung on in there and remained with us every step of the journey. Not only were their exterior shells still intact, but also their contents were still fresh after 2 and a half months on the road. Extremely weathered, covered in sticky jam and almost label-less, the tins were prised open and we tucked in.


The last meal
Once back on the road it was a mere 212 miles to Calais then 87 miles across the ferry and up the M20 back to Sevenoaks until we were home. We could almost taste it we were so close. A mood of restrained excitement filled Marigold as we crept closer and closer to Calais. On the one hand we remained in a quiet, contemplative mood as we reflected on our time travelling, but on the other there was also no hiding the palpable eagerness to crawl over that finish line and declare mission accomplished.

Roadside views were characterised by an abundance of wind turbines as we made our way through France thanks to their country having the second largest wind potential in Europe. Towering high above us, we were dwarfed by these 200m tall spinning blades of power either side of the road. But as we navigated our way through the minefield of wind farms we noticed one turbine appeared a lot smaller than the rest. Spinning ferociously at twice the speed of his imposing peers, here was an infant turbine trying his best to make an impression. Renewable energy? He wasn’t such a big fan.

With the very last 55p to our names (not even joking), we each bought a snickers from the port at Calais, boarded the ferry and prayed we had enough fuel to get us home the other side. The fact that we had completely run out of every last penny in the final two hours of the final day of the rally was either down to sheer dumb luck, or our exquisite budgeting skills. I’m fairly sure it was the latter; scrap paper, ballpark mental arithmetic and an alcohol consumption error range of +/- 48%, you just can’t teach that level of sophistication. Move over Chemical Engineering, we could pass an ACA accounting qualification in our sleep. 

Aboard the ferry it was time to take the all-important “before and after shot” to compare our now rugged appearance with the clean-cut baby faces that graced the Great British shoreline 71 days ago. Looking at that photo I was staring into the eyes of three men with no idea what lay ahead of them. No idea of the challenges, laughter and the incredible adventure they were about to embark upon. Now, when I look at the same photo two and a half months on I look into the eyes of complete fulfilment. Our bearded and weary yet still beaming faces serve as a timely reminder that we did the rally right.


Day 1 vs Day 71, boys to men
Despite all the wonderful scenery, landscapes and natural phenomena we had encountered on the rally, there’s still something uniquely special about seeing the White Cliffs of Dover. In the same way the Statue of Liberty welcomes those to the shores of the US, the white cliffs have come to symbolise our great nation. The magical thing about home is that it feels good to leave, but even better to come back.

Just as we were queuing to disembark the ferry we ran into a few other outrageously outfitted cars who were also returning home from a trip of their own. These guys had just completed the Screwball Rally, a 5-day drive from England to Prague and back again. That’s cute. Whilst we were on the home straight of a full-blown Ironman, they had effectively just completed a power walk to the shop and back for a pot noodle. Nevertheless, they seemed like friendly folk and were even generous enough to donate to our charities. Cheers gents, whoever you are. Even one of the staff members directing vehicles off the ferry recognised us from 71 days earlier. “You made it back then?” he smiled.

As we rolled off the ferry’s ramp, our lungs filled with the bitter sea air but the warmth of a sense of belonging. As the famous mantra goes, go big or go home. Well we went big, and now we’d come home. 


About to set foot back in the UK
Exiting the ferry port the first thing we passed was the peeling advertising board and dilapidated remnants of a Carpet Right store, a true sign we were home. Windows rolled down, “Walking on a Dream” blaring out of the car speakers and beside ourselves with excitement, Kent’s countryside never looked or felt so good. Totally anonymous stretches of the M20 motorway had now transformed into the Transfagarasan Highway, the Silk Road and the Pamir Highway all rolled into one. Even other motorists were passing us with their hands aloft, applauding and willing us on. It felt like a homecoming parade. Rich and Caleb were certainly transfixed by these most joyous of scenes; Alf on the other hand was fretting about driving on the left hand side for the first time in nearly 3 months.

There was no time to catch our breath as we hurtled our way inland. We flew past Ashford then Maidstone, across the River Medway and onto the M25, gathering more and more momentum as we went. When the Sevenoaks sign came into view we knew it was only a matter of moments before our whirlwind adventure was to draw its last breath. With darkness descending, we turned into Brittains Lane and entered the final furlong. At precisely 7.18pm we pulled into the bunting covered driveway of number 73, Casa d’Alford, where it all began 71 days before. Marigold, an ex granny wagon from the serenity of the Somerset countryside, had carried us 18,175 miles across 25 different countries through a kaleidoscopic journey of wonder.

Whereas the outward journey had been filled with breath-taking scenery, magical experiences and unforgettable memories, our return leg offered enrichment of a different kind. The unpredictability of Russia, the stunning architecture of Scandinavia and the madness of Amsterdam gave our adventure the perfect blend of awe, discovery and perspective.

It was a hell of run, but all good things must come to an end.

From East to West, home is best.

Home
Posted by: Rich

Day 70: The Day of Hyperinflation

Sunday 25th September

Feeling emotionally and physically battered by the scenes in Amsterdam we packed up and headed over to the overnight car park where Marigold had spent the night. Assured by Alf that we had gotten away with an absolute steal of only €5 for the night, we jovially sauntered up to the parking meter with what little cash we had left ready to pay. Either Amsterdam had the highest rate of hyperinflation since 35 quadrillion Zimbabwean dollars bought you a pint of milk, or Alf’s dyslexic brain had mis-read €5 for €60. Unsurprisingly, it was the latter. Somehow we had to come up with a way to fork out the now extortionate fee with what little scraps we had left to our name. Faced with returning to the Red Light District to sell our bodies for money, thankfully we scrambled together enough cash to save a red-faced Alf. Never change mate. 



Just outside Amsterdam we stopped by Leiden to visit Alf’s best bud from uni Niall. Skint, exhausted and in need of a decent shower, Niall’s place gave us the perfect respite we needed. Boasting the second largest Dutch city centre after Amsterdam, Leiden is a place to enjoy the more sedate pleasures in life without having to contend with hordes of tourists. The gorgeous canals, biking trails and world famous university allow residents to escape the chaotic cosmopolitan vibe of the capital city and enjoy a life of relative tranquillity. It was so peaceful we conked out on his living room floor barely minutes after the sun went down.

Posted by: Rich  

Day 69: The Day of the Coffee Shops, Canals and Clogs

Saturday 24th September

Being in Amsterdam is like living inside a bubble. It’s a diverse city of canals, cycles and “coffee” shops with exotic blends that customers smoke rather than sip. Whilst in the city we took time to catch up with fellow Bath chem-enger Matt and his girlfriend Kat who had recently moved to the area. Unlike us, here was a man who has life well and truly on track. Living in Amsterdam with his girlfriend, holding a dream job with Shell and owning a sun terrace that overlooks the nearby canal. By contrast the three of us were about to be unemployed, living at home with our parents and fretting over an appropriate duvet tog rating for the incoming winter. Nevertheless, we had a lovely lunch and for the first time we had the opportunity to divulge all our stories to non-ralliers we had known before the trip.

Some familiar faces

As the darkness descended upon the city we were reminded of what a rare place Amsterdam becomes. Just observing the obscenities in and around the city centre is just as if not more laughable than partaking in some of the alcohol infused titillation on show. Whether you’re bobbing along the streets of Magaluf dressed as a smurf or getting a bum tattoo of Where’s Wally in Kavos, you can count on us Brits to spread our boozy vulgarities to wherever a Thomson holiday brochure will take us, and Amsterdam is no different. We set off towards the city centre to soak up the atmosphere and wallow in the some of the most jaw-achingly hilarious scenes we’d ever seen in our lives.

To really get a taste for Amsterdam’s vibrant nightlife we decided to hit up the world-renowned petting zoo that is the Red Light District to see what all the fuss was about. It certainly entertained us in a gob-smacked kind of way. Stood at its epicentre you are surrounded by four sides of scantily clad women, transvestites and Homo sapiens of an unclear gender stood behind red windows as if they were fine furniture on display. It’s like visiting a pet rescue shelter if all the dogs were simultaneously on heat. A sight to see, but not to stare.

The tone for the evening was set early on when we stumbled upon a gaggle of cheery Brits excitedly waiting outside one particular window for their mate to reappear. To our surprise/horror, an 85 year-old granddad emerged from behind the curtain to a standing ovation from the baying mob and proceeded to salute them like royalty. There are no words.

As we continued to wander around it soon became clear this was a Brit stag do stomping ground. We saw teenage mutant ninja turtles, fox hunters and our personal favourite, Princess Leia being followed around by a dishevelled and weary looking group of wookies. But it wasn’t just Wayne and the lads from Clacton-on-Sea enjoying themselves, the hens were at it too. One group of ladies all wore pink wigs and matching T-shirts with crude alluring names like Sexy Suzy, Kinky Kirsty and Tasty Tracy written across their backs. I don’t know why they do it to themselves.

But for shear hilarity, the best stag do of the night had to go to the groom forced to wear a school uniform, a scraggly blond wig and large wooden clogs placed on the wrong feet. Clearly lubricated with far too many beers, he sidled over to Tasty Tracy and the gang announcing the words “ello ladiez” whilst mid-gurn. With no sign of reciprocation from the far from appealing females, the rejected clog-wearing groom conceded defeat and slowly tottered back to his jeering mates. Watching on in hysterics, it’s an image we will never forget.


Despite the rowdy crowds of over-excited pissheads spilling out onto the streets there are at least some locals trying to make a living. As we strolled along the district’s main walkway we were met by one of the most surreal sights of the evening. Sandwiched between a pair of gyrating window dancers stood a builder fixing one door’s luminescent red light, oblivious to all the debauchery going on around him. Others trying to make a living are the sex show reps stood on the door trying to entice unsuspecting punters inside to watch unspeakably degrading acts. 

Our favourite was a gaunt looking gangly man dressed in an over-sized pinstripe suit with a roasted peanut for a head. Wearing that same baggy two-piece your mum bought you as pageboy when you were eight years old, he had that resigned look etched across his face. Without even affording us eye contact as we walked past he voiced “showtime, come on in boyssss”, to which we just fell about laughing. For the next ten minutes we hung around outside the Moulin Rouge sex club just so we could hear our new best mate’s famous persuasive tagline.

When we reached the far end of the district, we came across a sleeping man pissing in such a perfect arc that it was keeping him upright like a third leg. With that we decided we’d seen enough and after 4 hours of walking up and down the exact same streets, it was time to head back. A night of belly-aching laughter that we won’t forget in a hurry.

Saturday night in Amsterdam is certainly a unique experience of male predation and intemperance, but it doesn’t come without its entertainment value. It’s the kind of place Donald Trump would hold his inauguration if he had his own way.

Posted by: Rich

Day 68: The Day of Harry's Final Curtain Call

Friday 23rd September

Denmark had impressed us a lot. Their green outlook, the sparkling clean appearance of their capital city and the relaxed nature by which the Danes go about their everyday lives led us all to agree we could see ourselves living there. But like the 67 days preceding this one, a different day brings a different destination, and this time it was the turn of the Netherlands. 



On the highway leading out of Denmark and into Germany Stephen Fry delivered the concluding sentiments of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows to a captivated audience. The audiobooks had almost become part of the family since they were introduced way back on Day 10 in Turkey, and we had been gripped ever since. The heroic wizarding adventures of Harry, Ron and Hermione had helped to maintain our sanity throughout the rally as well as galvanising our own quest into the unknown. Marigold, our very own golden snitch, had bravely carried us every step of the way, from “you’re a wizard Harry” to “Harry’s heart did beat for all of us, for all of us!”

Snatched so early from the relative tranquillity of the muggle world, she was reluctantly thrust onto the rally stage through no consent of her own. Constantly we were reminded of her unease at being the chosen one, the cursed car who would have to endure this perilous journey. Designed for the smooth, uniform roads of the western world, Marigold was not wired for a baptism into the arena of rocky washboard roads. Baring the scars of an overheating radiator, a crumpled bonnet and shredded tyres she was crying out for us to stop this torture. Yet deep down beneath this layer of unendurable pain there were glimmers that she is, was and will forever be enamoured by the romance of the rally.

With one last ounce of strength, Marigold conjured a dusty cloud from her exhaust that swirled upwards to form the wispy outline of a Mongolian Yak. “Your petrol-nus”, we all exclaimed in unison, awestruck by what was unfolding. As its golden glow faded, we turned to her, our eyes full of tears.

“After all this time?”

“Always”, said Marigold.

In that epiphanic moment all the missing pieces to the puzzle suddenly fell into line, Marigold had revealed her true rally colours. A cacophony of horn blasts and an eruption of general hyperactivity followed as slightly bewildered Dutch motorway drivers looked on.

When we rolled into a service station Caleb decided to add to his now overflowing collection of beer from each country to give to his dad. That was until he left it on the roof of the car as we drove off causing a fountain of sticky pilsener to spurt all over the garage forecourt. As if that wasn’t enough he fell for the same gag a few hours later with a cup of coffee yet continued to question where all his money went. When we arrived in Amsterdam it was to be the last evening of the convoy as Will and Isaac were to part ways with us for the final time. Beer in hand, we sat in the midst of a bustling square and reminisced on what had been 68 days of the most incredible adventure.

Posted by: Rich

Day 67: The Day of the Øresund Bridge

Thursday 22nd September

Onwards from our picturesque campsite we set our sights on Copenhagen, the last stop on our tour of the Scandinavian capitals. It turned out to be a beautiful drive through the lakes and fjords punctured by scatterings of idyllic island retreats. We then crossed the Øresund Bridge that connects the Swedish city of Malmo to Copenhagen, Denmark. This magnificent piece of engineering is the longest combined road and rail bridge in Europe running nearly 8km from the Swedish coast to the artificial island of Peberholm in the middle of the strait.

The Øresund Bridge
The 4km Drogden Tunnel then completes the crossing to the Danish Island of Amager. Despite the eye watering toll of €48 the spectacular views of the Øresund strait certainly made up for not being able to eat for the rest of the day. This set a predictable precedent for the rest of the day. Not just a burning hole in our pockets, the whole thing was ablaze. It was £6.50 a pint for Christ’s sake! Anyway, enough about how poor us students are; it’s expensive, we get it.

After a pleasant lunch we made a vague attempt to sightsee before settling in a nearby park to drink some beer and watch the world go by. We were even honoured enough to be waited on hand and foot by a couple of gentlemen collecting empty beer cans for the recycling. At this point the topic of future plans cropped up in conversation as we still didn’t have a fixed end date or even a reason to return to the UK at all. We had originally toyed with the idea of driving to Krakow so we could visit Auschwitz, however after one split-second look at the map we realised what an idiotic suggestion that was.  


Copenhagen, Denmark
When we hit the tiles later that evening, the student lifestyle once again consumed us. No matter how old you are, when the drinking game “Never Have I Ever” gets suggested everyone groans but somehow you end up playing it anyway. It provides an overtly personal insight into the lives of strangers that you didn’t ask for. Usual night out behaviour was restored for Alf who in his typical intrusive fashion attempted to defuse a developing dispute between an absolutely stacked African American man and the hostel receptionist. Rather than acting the peacekeeper, Alf lectured the man, through slurring words, on the importance of approaching such scenarios in a diplomatic and gentlemanly way. Unsurprisingly this aggravated the situation even more as the irate American was now remonstrating with everyone within a 3m radius. Rather than step in, we just sat back with our popcorn and enjoyed the late night viewing; we couldn’t wait to see the arrogant yank render our dear friend unconscious.

Posted by: Rich

Day 66: The Day of Tesla vs Fjord

Wednesday 21st September

Sick of having to pump up our front right tyre every morning, we decided to change it for our not-so-road-legal and nearly slick spare. Convenience over safety, that’s our motto. We then set off for a quick stopover in Oslo before heading south towards Copenhagen. Much like its fellow Scandinavian counterparts, Oslo was alive with culture and lifestyle choices that say **engages Mississippi accent** “since I’ve come this far, may as well keep on going”.

Striking architecture, exercising people on every street corner and our third stop on the buffet pilgrimage in 3 days gave us a good insight of the place. One notable landmark we did visit was a giant white skateboard ramp located right on the harbour front. This was in fact the spectacular Norwegian National Opera House rising out of the water and inviting visitors to enjoy the panoramic views of Oslo and the fjord from its summit. It was splendid.
Norwegian National Opera House
Besides being very physiologically aware, the Norwegians also bring a very green, carbon neutral platter to their seat at the dinner table of the world. Whereas we may see Norway as a bunch of try-hard do-gooders with their Tesla cars and eco-friendly biofuels, one day the rest of Europe will follow the example they have set. Plus, Norwegian women love chatting about global warming on a date, it’s a real icebreaker.                                                                    (Terrible)     

We left Oslo in high spirits and soon looked for a place to camp for the night. To our great surprise we stumbled upon the most enchanting clearing beside the Kalvo Fjord. Nestled just out of sight we pitched up beside the calm water’s edge and rustled up a now perfectly honed recipe of pasta and tomato sauce.

Fjord-side camping spot outside Oslo
Posted by: Rich

Day 65: The Day Sweden Didn't Dissapoint

Tuesday 20th September

The stench and deafening roar of Alf’s morning farts weren’t the most welcome wake up call in a stuffy bunk bed cabin. Nevertheless we hopped out of bed and ascended onto the front deck just in time for the port of Stockholm to creep into view. As we disembarked the ship the Kenari continued to have ignition problems and Marigold’s front right was again flat. A quick kiss of life from the electric pump and a successful bump start later, we gallantly fought on. We weren’t going to be downed that easily. Whatever delivery the rally bowled to us, whether it be a pacey leg cutter or a bamboozling doosra, it would receive the same treatment – tonked into deep extra cover.

Stockholm
There are three things I’ll take away from our time in Scandinavia, expensive parking, attractive women and all you can eat buffets. To park Marigold anywhere remotely near the city centre of Stockholm was nothing short of daylight robbery at £7 an hour. However, this was more than made up for by the leggy blonde hair blue eyed angels whose pendulum hips swung side to side all around us. It’s no coincidence that Sweden’s women are so beautiful, they work hard to maintain a plateau of at least an 8/10. The Swedes find any excuse to get outside and live an active lifestyle.


Bicycles, roller skaters and runners are everywhere in Stockholm thanks to a city built around cycle lanes and pedestrianized areas. Even something as restful as lazing on a piece of furniture Ikea turned into a pulse raising activity. “How can we make this into a workout, I know let’s make them assemble it themselves”. They really have cracked the healthy living code. As 3 bearded out-of-shape slobs on the verge of deep vein thrombosis, we certainly felt out of place in the city. By this point Alf could barely complete one press-up, Rich’s alveoli looked like a singed broccoli and Caleb had a cardiac arrest just at the sight of a bike. Inspired by what we saw around us, we headed to a nearby Chinese for our second all you can eat buffet in as many days.

Once we’d set our healthy living body clocks back a few more weeks we drove out of town in the direction of Oslo ready to enter our 23rd different country on the rally so far. By dusk we found a dense forested area roughly halfway between Stockholm and Oslo, near the town of Mobacka, and pitched up for the night. A heavily overgrown single-track pathway led us through thick undergrowth and shrubbery to a small clearing in the woods. It was like something out of a scary movie, but so rally!


Posted by: Rich

Day 64: The Day of the Mother-in-Law, 64

Monday 19th September

The closer to home we travelled, naturally the more westernised and normal our surroundings became. It wasn’t the fact that Europe was any more uninspiring than what had come before, it was more the familiarity of what we saw around us. Infrastructure, food, fashion and social decorum were all now very much like what we experience in our day-to-day lives back in the UK, and very different to the likes of Mongolia. Not boring as such but just within reach of a Ryan Air flight. We of course knew to expect this and did not let it detract from what is a beautiful city, Helsinki.

Government Palace, Helsinki
We woke up in the cheapest hostel we could find in the city, the CheapSleep hostel, and arranged to meet up with our old friends Will and Isaac who’s Kenari was still just about chugging along. This was the 5th time on the trip we had re-convened with members of the Thunderbirds/Two and Half Men hybrid team. They just can’t get rid of us, we’re like that soggy bogey you can’t quite flick off your finger. Once the pleasantries had once again been exchanged we set off for some more sightseeing. As was the case with most of Europe, everything was stratospherically expensive. The so-called “CheapSleep” hostel was £18 a night with no towels, a lunch baguette was €12 and at the currency exchange $10 equals only €4 apparently. Rich was swindled out of €6 on commission, that’s enough for a deposit on a 3-bed yurt in Mongolia.

About to give the Beatles a run for their money
Part of the grand plan was to catch a ferry from Helsinki to Stockholm where we would continue to weave our way through Scandinavia. Credible advisors to Alf had spoken of this “mental overnight booze cruise” between the two cities so we obliged and joined the queue in the port. Whilst patiently waiting in line, doing what us Brits do best, we thought we’d tot up the total time spent stationary waiting at borders. 3 days and 3 hours of continuous waiting was the final figure. A long weekend on the Norfolk broads we could’ve enjoyed in that time but instead we spent it battling impatient locals in line for a human library stamp. It’s like spending the time to remove a USB safely, an utter waste of life. But as John Lennon once said, the time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.

Once the boat had set sail we soon realised this was more like a cruise ship than a ferry. Three decks, sprawling shops, a casino and even, to our excitement, a nightclub. Given that the average age of our fellow passengers was around the 73 mark we thought we’d head on down to this “nightclub” and get a boogie on. When we sauntered over to that part of the ship we were met by a sea of fuzzy grey mops jangling their feet beneath them. It was in fact a bingo hall, and legs eleven had just been called.


We stood and watched for a brief moment as all the classic cruise ship stereotypes unfolded in front of our eyes. A plump, middle-aged woman wearing an ill-fitting sailor’s outfit was sat at the front calling the bingo and playing cheesy jingles. As she called “Gareth Gates, it’s number 8” a pair of dentures flew across the room and a muffled shriek of “bingo” pierced the calm air. Just as the lucky winner arose to claim her prize, the famous drum roll began and the opening bars of Cliff Richard’s congratulations echoed through the ship. Textbook bingo.

Holding a pint of Fosters and not really knowing where to look or what to make of Butlins in the Baltic, we persevered and soaked up the atmosphere for a bit. After the bingo had finished the announcer began to introduce the evening’s entertainment. With fingers crossed for Kanye and hype man Jay-Z to suddenly burst through the curtain, we were mildly disappointed to have to settle for a 5-piece swing band. As the double bass player plucked his first note the floor was immediately filled with veteran cruise shippers twirling around in perfect hold. Thinking our contemporary portrayal of a dab-tastic twerking big booty mama would look out of place in this setting, we instead turned our attentions to more familiar territory - the all you can eat, and crucially drink, buffet.

The calm before the storm
For another frankly extortionate fee of €36 we were let loose on the buffet and wine tap. Keen to get our money’s worth we carefully constructed an over-indulgence meal strategy to ensure maximum gluttony and regret. The plan was simple, load up your plate and eat it as you circled back to the start of the buffet, making a pit stop at the bar on your way round. That way we didn’t waste valuable gorge-filled seconds or even ever need to sit down. Belt buckles loosened, bibs assembled and gullets opened wide, we were ready to go.

By the 11pm bell the excessive eating ceased and we were more stuffed than a comatose Paddington Bear at Christmas. Now carrying a few extra spare tyres that may come in handy through mainland Europe, we staggered to the closest seating area - the casino. Isaac fancied his chances at the roulette wheel, and to his credit his long game strategy paid off. But he was no match for his opposite number, a high rolling Fin who wasn’t messing around with the tiddlywink stakes. Just when you thought he’d stuck all on red and lost big, he’d brandish another €100 chip from his back pocket as if it were a spare button. Leaving the retiree to bet his pension away, we called it a night and returned to our cabins for some sleep.   

Posted by: Rich