Friday 2nd September
Departing from our camping spot on the
outskirts of Khovd, we set our sights on the city of Altai, 450 kilometres
away. Long stretches of beautiful tarmac deteriorated after lunch to much more
difficult terrain. It was fair to say Simon Sump took an absolute pounding this
day as we tried to negotiate over rocky grasslands, washboard roads and
undulating sandy tracks. Navigating through the remote surroundings proved to
be tough given how many pathways had been forged by travellers in the past.
Thankfully, long stretches of electricity pylons led us to the nearest
settlements. Apart from these landmarks there was very little sign of life. The
dry, desert-like grasslands either side of the road did not nurture much
wildlife apart from beaver-type animals and camels. As our lonely planet guide
informed us, Mongolia is the least densely populated country in the world with
only 2 people per square kilometre.
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| We hit a bit of a snag on the roads |
With Mongolia’s infrastructure
experiencing a mild boom at the moment, tarmac roads are being built left right
and centre. Frustratingly for us, large immovable piles of earth block off the
seemingly completed roads. For long distances we were forced to drive parallel
to this pristine surface on slaloming dirt track filth. It was like dangling
the softest, moistest carrot cake in front of a donkey. Marigold was beside
herself with anguish, being able to see the gates to heaven but knowing you are
firmly shackled in a washboard hell. All of a sudden the driving surface went
proper off-road. Faint tyre tracks leading into an expanse of deep sand lay
ahead of us. From here on it was windows up, air vents closed and full power to
the front wheels! Amazingly, Team Honeymoon were the only ones to beach
themselves - nothing a quick push can’t sort out.
As the setting sun washed an orange
glow over the surrounding landscape there was to be one last spark of
excitement. Whilst battling with the sandy conditions, Will re-ignited the
on-going convoy mutiny and lobbed an egg at Team Thunderbirds. Rather than
splatter mercilessly across the Kenari’s windscreen, by some dark sorcery it
somehow landed in the clutches of Hockey’s elbow completely intact. Leaping to
his feet he quickly turned the tides on his aggressor and darted for a now
exposed, defenceless Will. As the Agila’s windows were frantically wound up
Hockey, a usually reserved calm fellow, approached them with the face of pure
possessed evil. In a sudden rush of rage he launched the egg straight back at
Will who’s partially closed window could not prevent the cold wet slime from
slapping him in the face. An event of tectonic historical significance, Car
Wars Episode IV: A New Yoke will always be remembered as Hockey’s redemption.
It was much more civilised around
dinner outside Altai as once more we sat accompanied by just the stars. Whilst
toasting marshmallows over a roaring fire, Rich received a message on the
tracker from rally cult hero Alan Horton in response to the eagle sightings the
previous day. The setting was perfect to share some wise words from the big
man. This time he had sent us some evocative song lyrics that seemed befitting
in our current surroundings. They went as follows:
There’s an eagle, and it keeps on flying
Over mountains capped with white snow
In green valleys lonesome people trying so hard
To tell each other what they think they know
With greedy hands they take each other’s money
Just to buy back each other’s pain
In this land of flowing milk and honey
They wonder thirsty in the rain
Lovely.
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| Toasting marshmallows |
Posted by: Rich