Day 33: The Day the Dark Lord Returned

Friday 19th August

Once the sun had peered over the distant mountains we arose and headed into Bulun-Kul for a closer look. The friendly village folk welcomed us into their community offering us clean water from their wells and a place to stay the night. Eager to make progress towards Murghab on the Pamir Highway we exchanged photos, waved goodbye and pressed on.

Lake Bulunkul
Bulun-Kul Village, the most remote village in Tajikistan at 12,000 ft
Back on the hallowed tarmac of the Pamir we continued to ascend up to the highest point that the car could reach at 15,270 ft or 4,655 m.

Factoid: the Pamir Highway is the second highest international highway in the world
On top of the Pamir Highway at 15,270 ft
Not content with being only 345 m short of reaching 5,000 m we began the gruelling climb up a nearby peak hoping to reach that milestone. Wearing boat shoes, toms and plimsolls the intrepid explorers of Team Rub-a-Dub-Dub channelled their inner Shackleton and began the steady ascent to the top. Progress proved to be slower than an asthmatic snail thanks to the thin air as we could only muster a handful of steps before needing a breather. Either that or sitting on our arses for 5 weeks in a car may have had something to do with it.

When we finally summited the top we were standing at 16,130 ft, only 80 m short of our target 5,000 m. Despite feeling slightly deflated, it felt good being higher than the peak of Mont Blanc and the accompanying views over the neighbouring snow dusted mountains were sensational. Mid celebratory huddle, the wind and snow suddenly picked up as the conditions closed in. A black scar appeared in the sky resembling the dark mark Barty Crouch Jr had cast only a few hours before on the audiobook. Keen not to mess with the newly reborn Dark Lord, we began our descent back to the safety of Margiold.



Just when you thought you’d captured the best shots on the Pamir you turned the corner and there in front of you was another stunning valley. It is impossible to articulate how beautiful this leg of the journey was. Totally isolated it was just the three cars in the convoy, a winding highway and an unquestionably magnificent landscape. It was like being in a wonderland.



Posted by: Rich