Day 16: The Day with the Saipa Sabas

Tuesday 2nd August

This felt like our first proper day in Iran after waiting for ages at the border the previous day. A few things struck us on the drive to Tehran. First was the choice of cars. Iranians either own a Peugeot Pars or a Saipa Saba, that’s pretty much it. Two bang average cars, only in white and with what looks like their laundry hanging out the window to dry. 


Our guide informed us that a brand new Saipa Saba costs 5,000 euros so people buy them, burn as much petrol and clutch as possible and then buy a new one. We must’ve seen at least 10,000 of them, all of which were full of friendly Iranians who were so happy to see us. “Welcome to Iran” every other car would say whilst some offered packets of cigarettes, fruit and fire lighting bracelets. One man even offered team Thunderbirds an assortment of CDs including the BeeGees, greatest love songs and his own mixtape of Arabic rap. 


Next was the currency. It’s silly monopoly money. The exchange rate is approximately 1 GBP to 40,000 Rial so to be a billionaire in Iran you need £25,000. If rub-a-dub-dub clubbed together all our funds we’d be -5.2 million rial overdrawn, so we’re not far off.

We’d seen some erratic driving so far on this trip but nothing in comparison to what we saw in Tehran. Cars were speeding around roundabouts the wrong way because they fancied it, reversing into oncoming traffic and 12 vehicles were sardined into 7 lanes; and that was just the cars. Motorbikes popping wheelies would try their best to throw themselves under your bumper. But as we soon realised, this was part of the ebb and flow of life in Tehran. Alf and Rich were having a whale of a time shaking hands and making friends. Caleb however, who was driving, had rivers of sweat running down his face as he tried his best to preserve Marigold’s immaculate paintwork.

Azadi Tower, Freedom Square
We briefly stopped at Freedom Square famous for the Azadi Tower before arriving at the next hotel. Fortunately for us, we were staying in Tehran’s car district. Along the main street there was a shop for every imaginable part in any car. Tyres, exhausts, springs, oil, bumpers and badges could be bought along with many more. There was even a shop selling only gear stick knobs. I was half expecting Tim Westwood to pop out at any moment on the Iranian Special of Pimp My Ride ready to transform Marigold into a sick new whip.

Posted by: Rich